Sipapu offers just over 1,000 vertical feet of skiing, most of it served by the triple chair that rises from the base, and most of it consisting of intermediate runs. There is a small beginner area at the base, served by a poma lift, and a terrain park near the top of the mountain, served by another poma lift. A short chairlift at the very top of the mountain provides access to challenging off-piste glade skiing, including some longer routes which will eventually bring you down somewhere into the main ski runs below.
Sipapu's runs, though, for the most part tend toward intermediate skiing, perhaps upper intermediate as some of them are narrow and they twist and turn down the mountain, intersecting and connecting in ways that give you a lot of routes down for a relatively small mountain.
Sipapu is one of the best places for early-season skiing, as its snowmaking ability and its location in a chilly mountain valley make it able to open earlier, and open more runs sooner, than many of its NM competitors. The downside of this is, though, that the man-made snow can become quite icy early in the season when it is subjected to daily cycles of melting or softening during the day (and getting scraped off by skiers), then re-freezing at night. On the other hand, the early season lift prices are a real bargain - before December 15 (when some other areas are just getting around to opening), you can ski nearly the entire vertical for just $15 a day. Sipapu boasts New Mexico's longest ski season, and bargain lift rates are also often available late in the season.
In addition to the big fireplace, the rental shop and a combined ski shop and convenience store are located on the main floor of the big, old lodge. Upstairs are a cafeteria/restaurant where all the food is cooked to order, and a friendly little bar with a couch and TV to watch the big game while you take a break from skiing.
Upsides: Early start to season, bargain lift ticket rates (especially early and late in the season), neat old lodge with big fireplace, friendly family atmosphere.
Downsides: Area is small, limited terrain for beginners and experts (except for the above-mentioned off-piste tree skiing), some runs are narrow.
Info notes: Season pass holders at Sipapu enjoy a recriprocal arrangement that allows them to ski free for 3 days each at Pajarito Ski Area and at Colorado's Monarch Ski Area.
Sipapu is located a half hour or so from Taos, and about an hour and twenty minutes from Santa Fe.
If you are interested in staying overnight, ask about the package that allows you to stay free in the lodge with the purchase of a $39 lift ticket.
Lodging: As noted above, there are rooms in the third floor of the lodge where you can stay for free, subject to availability, with the purchase of a $39 lift ticket. This is basic accomodations, though - as one person in the bar said, pointing to the TV in the bar, "If you get one of the free rooms, this is your TV." There are also some less rustic accomodations available in the base area, and a wide variety of lodging in the town of Taos, a half hour or so away.
Lodge fireplace:
